Sgurr nan Gillean is one of the most northerly peaks on the Black Cuillin Ridge, and one of the finest with its sharply pointed summit. The Cuillin are composed of gabbro rock which gives wonderful grip even when wet, but these mountains have narrow ridges and pointed summits which require scrambling or even rock-climbing to reach the summit. The ascent of Sgurr nan Gillean commences in Coire Riabach NNE of the summit and continues on rock and scree on the E face of the mountain to reach the SE ridge. From here the ascent is a scramble and the summit is very very small with lots of exposure!
A route for scramblers only with considerable exposure. You are recommended to purchase and study a higher scale map of the Black Cuillin of Skye before attempting an ascent.
Climbed via the West ridge in poor weather. I have to say the exposure was terrifying - in some ways worse than the In Pinn itself. Many scrambling moves that felt decidely dodgy, over hideous exposure. A good head for heights and climbing expereince are very much required for this route.
David S Brown wrote on May 23, 2006:
Sometime in recent years the once notoriously boggy beginning of 'The Tourist Route' (as mentioned in my Route Review) has been greatly improved. On my recent ascent of Am Basteir (via the tourist route as far as the lip of Coire Riabach, then branched right) it was bone dry and a really good track! (Incidentally: the comment below on this page by David Brown is from another member: he's bagged far more than me, and I'm the photographer, hope that's not confusing!)
Craig Johnstone wrote on July 10, 2005:
Having never climbed a hill before, let alone a munro, I found this somewhat challenging and am rather surprised to still be alive at the end of it all, still, nice view fom the top though!!
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Bla Bheinn - Crossal, Carbost, Isle of Skye, IV47 8SP Tel: 01478 640269